While I’ve been very bad at blogging for quite some time now I’ve been pretty productive elsewhere in my life. Here’s one of the moodboards I’ve been working from in the studio. Check, plaid, tartan. Whatever you wanna call it. It’s not newsworthy that grunge is back - even Look magazine is all over that shit. It is also arguable that plaid is not, in fact, back because it never really went away…it’s just more that it has been promoted…While print is having a maximal moment, a plaid is a simpler more minimal way of doing it. Loud without being fussy. This season’s plaids are in fresh new colours, as well as referencing classic 90′s styles. What I like about plaid for Spring Summer 2013 is the combinations of print and textures, á la Dries with the florals and the mettalics. Or Richard Chai Love with the washed out, painterly thing. And if all else fails, just throw on a mini kilt and matching jacket and look like a total Betty, as per Cher in Clueless. Way cool.
I have a bit of a sick feeling in my stomach saying this. I think I love Cavalli now. I don’t know whether they changed or whether I changed but something has gone awry somewhere and now I can’t get enough. It has been creeping up on me for the past few seasons, pleated animals, awesome baroques, tropicals, more animals. And those baseball hats. If someone sees my good taste lying around will they drop it back to me please. Thanks.
Roberto Cavalli Resort 2013
Just Cavalli Resort 2013
All images via Style.com
Did I mention that I had a ticket for Basso & Brooke’s show and couldn’t go? GUTTED. Especially when I saw what I had missed up close and in detail. The guys have been championing print-clash forever, and right now the fashion world are seeing their way of looking at things. Building on SS12′s obsession with print-on-print, Fall’s offering collages the new graphic geometric. Think houndstooth beside waffle, diamond beside hexagon, squares beside stripes. It’s mostly mid-scale, so that it’s large enough to be seen, but small enough to show a decent amount of repeats – these prints want you to know that they are there. It’s monochromes, purples, blues and reds. It’s really interesting brocades and quilting, creating surface texture in neoprenes and lurex. It’s reminiscent of men’s scarves and questionable ’60′s interiors. It’s graphic, and loud, and definitely not for the faint hearted.
On another note, I have been making moodboards. Here’s one I made earlier.
One of the benefits of working in a design studio is the amazing design & reference books lying around. I found one about Morocco the other day and I feel like it’s SO NOW. Wha? Mozaic prints, trompe l’oile geometrics, arabesques. And the COLOUR. I could get all zeitgeisty on it and delve into why I think Islamic art is having a moment in Western culture, but then I would have to formulate abstract thoughts into sentences and really, you’re probably more interested in looking at pretty pictures.
It all just makes me want to go to Marrakesh and nosey about in a souk. Sigh. But in an AbFab way, not an annoying, Sex and the City 2 way. That film offended me on almost every level. Like made my skin crawl and eye hurt. But that’s for another day. Here is why I wanna go ‘splorin in Morocco. Someone take me please. Thanks.
Image via: link
Pucci is not exactly the coolest brand in fashion. However, I really doubt that anyone in the house gives a monkeys, as cool was never their thing. Pucci is luxury, Pucci is glamour and opulence. Historically, the Pucci woman was draped on a yacht, or a rocky beach in Marrakesh, or some other fantastic location, swathed in metres of printed silk. While I am most certainly not a Pucci woman, I have always had a soft spot for the brand’s vibrant prints, their colour interaction and the seemingly simple swirly doodles (yes that is the technical term) that make up the designs.
The reason I mention this is that I was particularly taken by Peter Dundas’ Resort 2012 collection for the brand. While staying true to Emilio’s vision, Dundas has for the last number of seasons been sharpening the Pucci look, updating it for a modern audience. The traditional Pucci has been given a modern palette, a bit more negative space and a tweak on scale, and looks great.
There is something sort of ethnic and tribal about Pucci prints, despite their kaleidoscopic colour palettes. There is also something Kandinsky-esque about them – a colourful collection of abstracted shapes put together to create maximum impact – and while I am not sure that Emilio was so cracked on synaesthesia, there is certainly an echo of cacophony in his work. Dundas has simplified the colour schemes, but with similarly maximum impact, reworking classic prints and creating fresh ones.
But woman cannot live on print alone, and thus Dundas has cleverly designed sharply cut block colour separates worthy of Anna Dello Russo herself. Can’t you just see her in them?
all images via style.com
I should have done this first, really, what with me being in textiles and stuff. But I’m doing it now. So enjoy. Here are my favs (in no particular order) from Textiles this year, across embroidery, weave and print.
I’m so proud of all the ladies from Textile Design, the show was amazing. I have been very lucky to be part of a really amazing class, and I wish everyone the best of luck in the future, but with work like theirs, luck will have very little to do with their success! xxx
Today’s challenge of “an outfit you wish you had” ties nicely in with my desire to share my thoughts on the Resort 2012 collections. I really enjoyed looking through all the collections, as I felt like recently despite being totally immersed in the creation of fashion things, that I was totally divorced from what was going on outside my little bubble. So, since I last checked, I realise that I have developed a penchant for massive trousers, and more print than usual. I still like shirts, although I could have told you anyway, seeing as I bought three of them the other day…So here are the outfits I wish I had from the latest collections…
It’s quite a varied selection, granted, but I think the overall feel is a sort of relaxed glamour, luxe sportswear, classic shapes with a twist. I am continuing my love affair with shirts in all variations. Leather and print feature heavily in my favourites, although I don’t think it’s indicative of the general mood of the season, but rather my own preferences. If I was severely loaded…I think I’ll play the lotto tomorrow…
PS Full review of the NCAD Grad Show to follow, either this eve or tomorrow.
PPS This is where I got the post title from, they have disabled embedding, but click the link it’s fierce funny!
Fan(n.): an instrument for cooling things, also a person who admires someone or thing greatly. C/Fan is Christina Fan’s label, which I admire greatly. Her floaty printed dresses manage to be more Acne than Cavalli, which is no mean feat (trust me as someone who is trying to do it at the moment, start playing with pattern, silks and maxis and it’s VERY murky water).
Her lines are clean and her palette assured. I like that she uses LOADS of silk. I like silk. I can’t wait for the weather to get a bit nicer so I can wear it more. I also like the aesthetic she has for her look book. I think we might be friends if we knew each other.
This is what C/Fan does with her time. I wonder if she secretly wanted to be a rapper, and thought of the name ages ago. And then she discovered that she sucked at it, and became a designer instead. If that’s the case (and I have a feeling I am RIGHT ON THE MONEY here, lol), then she made the right decision.
images via cfan-designs.com
Suno make vibrant, wearable clothes. The prints often form the main focal point and that is what initially caught my attention. However, when you start reading the story behind the brand, it gets better. The aforementioned prints are based on founder Max Osterweis’ collection of Kenyan textiles collected over the years which explains the overriding African craft vibe from the collections. However, even better is the fact that Suno is dedicated to sustainability and ethical treatment of workers (which are by no means the same thing), and produce more than 70% of their stuff locally in Kenya. Now, to be upfront, I know Kenya is pretty huge, and I don’t know the name of one city, so I have no idea what local means in this context, but the company seems to be very focused on using indigenous talent and upskilling people to create a better local (there’s that word again) economy and providing skills and commerce to areas that are often overlooked. Which is never a bad thing.
What I especially like about Suno is that they are a fashion company first. Their ethos is built into their designs, but not on the surface of them, if you get me. I believe in working towards a more sustainable fashion industry that works along more ethical guidelines, but I think one of the main reasons that puts people off buying from companies who are heavily involved in sustainability is that design comes after their beliefs. And with the exception of slogan tshirts, very few people want to wear their beliefs so literally. I think to really enact change, companies like Suno are the way forwards, where what they are trying to do just IS. It’s almost a given, and then they focus on creating garments that the vast majority of people want to wear. By selling them as fashion, instead of a social conscience, they are giving people what they want. Just in a more responsible way on the back end of things. If bigger companies just WERE socially conscious, I imagine consumers would be massively supportive. People are lazy. I’m lazy. And I am aware of the problem far more than most. I don’t believe that people purposely buy things to spite workers or the environment, but too often the greener alternative is too difficult to access (in comparison to highstreet stuff), or the design quality just isn’t there.
So, before I rant on all day, here’s to Suno and their company and what they stand for. Great clothes, that is.
If you want to learn more about what you can do to make a difference, no matter how small, go to re-dress.ie. The girls that run it are great, and run courses and talks and loads of good stuff, as well as providing information.