More memories from London Fashion Week Fall 2012. As we all know, the devil is in the detail. And they were some devilishly good details. Sorry, that was really poor, even by my standards. The details, by contrast, are of a very high standard. And again, yellow and red seem to be the pervading LFW AW12 street style colours of choice. Go figure.
Fashion Week seems like an age ago, and I am very bold that I’m only getting around to this post now. I posted about the fasharazzi, and how odd the circus at Somerset House is, but in fact I am an awful hypocrite because I was there, papping away myself. As I noted at fashion week in September, I have a tendency to crop people’s heads when I shoot street style. I am not entirely sure why I do this, perhaps it is a reaction to the blatant showing off that some people carry on with, but it is meant with no malice or conscious thought. I guess I just like the anonymous aesthetic.
Either way, I unconsciously shot a colour story – red and yellow were the two key colours that caught my eye. The message? This summer it’s all about hyper-bright block colour? I’m not actually sure, but this is what the kids in London were wearing at Fashion Week Fall 2012…
Yes I know technically this is closer to green, but close enough. Plus, she’s wearing Acne shoes.
This Fashion Week I got papped loads, and it sort of unnerved me. The fact that I do outfit posts on this blog means that I think I have some sense of style, but by the same token, I have always seen myself as the person behind the camera. Also, it is meaningless because everyone got papped loads, DSLRs were the new hot necklace, or so it seemed. It got me thinking…
The fashion paparazzi are a new breed of bloggers and photographers (from hereon in referred to simply as bloggers) that are now part and parcel of the circus that is Fashion Week. They document street style, which feeds back into the fashion machine and informs magazines and media as well as designers and trend forecasting companies, and indirectly affects the way fashion progresses as much as it records fashion the way it is now.
Papping the paps rather than the clothes at fashion week…
This phenomenon did not exist even just a few years ago. And I suppose, in one way it makes sense; fashion week is a hub of stylish people, so of course any blogger with any sense within a commutable distance is going to go and try get some good images for their blog. I know I did. But at what point does the sublime become ridiculous? At what point does the search for an authentic picture become a hoard of buzzy bees with DSLRs creating nothing but internet noise and generally being annoying? When does the fasharazzi become plain old paparazzi?
Paps & vloggers
I honestly don’t know the answer to this question. I can’t really talk either, as I was there, with my DSLR, looking at people and papping the ones I liked. But you sort of have to go and see for yourself to get a feel for the sheer volume of cameras – walking into Somerset House can be so overwhelming, there are literally hundreds of fashionably dressed people sticking cameras in your face, it feels like walking the gauntlet to get to the registration office. And like a mexican wave, as soon as one paps you, another five appear from nowhere and start doing the same. Did they mistake me for someone famous? Did they not know and snap in case I am famous? Or were they just following the crowd, copying others around them? I felt silly and uncomfortable, though I usually obliged because I also think that they aren’t really doing anything wrong – they’re just like me, into fashion and doing they thang on the internet, right?
Well…I dunno. I got the impression there can be a serious lack of editing skills – shoot first, decide whether I like it later – which is a weak way of shooting, and more like papping in my book. But I guess all the blame can’t rest on the bloggers, there was more than enough willing fodder. I got the impression from some people I saw and others I spoke to that the sole reason they got dressed that morning was to turn up on as many blogspots as they possibly could, like they were waiting to be discovered, though even they weren’t sure what they were being discovered for. Which is disingenuous, turning the notion of street style into a charade, where the pappers and the papped are egging each other on, creating images that have less and less to do with authenticity and actual street style. It’s the kind of pretension that makes people hate fashion, and it annoys me because generally speaking the authentic people and the good bloggers are intelligent, lovely and unpretentious, it demeans the good work they do.
This image is the only one I have actually seen – for all the cameras, where do the images go?!
I strongly believe in street style as a valid form of fashion photography and documentary – it records our culture and how we see ourselves. On the other hand, I strongly disagree with the unintended consequence of misguided people thinking they are mini celebrities and prancing around Somerset House with no other motive than getting papped and adding nothing to the fashion conversation. If you are there with a big camera and have nothing to say, you are a tourist. Or a chancer. Simple as.
I think my main problem is that I see so many blogs run by people who claim to want to be fashion journos, and they don’t know the difference between a rolled hem and a french seam, who can’t spot a brogue from a loafer. It’s the reduction of fashion to a mindless, “ooh-look-at-the-pretty-thing” that really gets me in this fashion paparazzi debate. It infuriating seeing people wanting to be the next Tommy Ton, or Scott, or Garance, without putting the time in to actually study what they claim to be so passionate about. It’s the people who don’t know their from there, gushing on about FASHUN, and not stopping for two seconds to form a new idea, a new thought, or to really draw any conclusions from the work that designers put so much effort into producing. It makes a mockery of the system, it debases it, creating a culture that is no better than crass reality tv shows that are built on mediochre wannabes*.
There were about 4 more photographers to my left here
I know I am being somewhat (very) hypocritical here. Who am I to say that people can’t go and participate? But I feel like it is a conversation that needs to be had. Of course bloggers have a very valid place, and as a blogger, I know that it can help to promote a community within fashion and give women a forum for understanding fashion and self-identity at a more grass-roots level, which is appealing and reassuring**. Blogs are community, and are a real force in fashion media today. I suppose my problem is at what point do all the photographers just become like mainstream paparazzi, a nuisance, too much? Or do I just need to chill the hell out? Perhaps I need to take my own advice and realise that there are good bloggers and bad bloggers and they are all entitled to do their thing, and I should just zone the bad ones out. And to never, ever go to Fashion Week with a hangover.
I love this guy, he’s the cutest – saw him everywhere!
*I’m sure reality tv stars are lovely people if you meet them, but lots of people are lovely and have more talent and qualifications to create good tv.
**I did my university thesis on this. And I got a first in it. So trust me, I am both pro-blogger, and know what I am talking about.
These were the best bits of Topshop/BFC’s NewGen area at Somerset House, according to me, when I visited on Saturday. I was sad because Holly Fulton & Michael Van Der Ham have yet to show so they only had last season’s collection, and JW Anderson had like 4 things on his space. But I was happy because there was a bunch of awesome new stuff, like David Koma’s amazing collection, and Paler//Harding’s incredible shirt-based collection, Thomas Tait, and Simone Rocha’s INSANE new collection, and Sister by Sibling’s super fun one, and……..I am in danger of gushing.
David Koma AW12
Yea.
Let’s just have a little moment for how insanely good Simone Rocha is. This season was her first proper show, and from seeing the pieces up close and personal, she is really ready to play with the big boys. The level of quality and detail in her work is so developed and refined, and her colour pallate and ability to play with texture really is something special. I particularly loved her shirt with the wooly collar, was so cute, and then the lace blazer, and the wooly/perspex dress. Dream.
Simone Rocha AW12
Simone Rocha AW12
Also, this was my first season knowing about Thomas Tait, and I can’t wait for more amazing things from him.
Thomas Tait
And finally, Sister by Sibling totally made my rainy day with their cheeky little barbie dolls at their space. Love it.
Sister by Sibling AW12
Hung out in Somerset House again today with my pal and blogger extrodinaire Ana aka Ripped Knees. She was kind enough to take a pic of me to share with you nosey parkers. Here I am wearing clothes, in front of the Fashun Week hoarding. A nice lady from Company also asked to take my picture, I think because her iPad case was the same colour as my skirt!
Shirt, American Apparel; Cardigan, Comptoir des Cottoniers; Skirt, thrifted; Coat; custom hacked to pieces; Shoes, Carvela; Hat, American Apparel; Scarf, Urban Outfitters, HOLGA
acid pop colour for the win!
I have been meaning to features these shoes for ages as I bought them in the sales at Christmas and I love them to pieces. They are half-brogue-half-creeper and really this picture does the soles no justice, but they are comfy and awesome. My mother thinks they look like nun shoes and she may well have a point but no matter because they look GREAT.
Also loved having my lil Holga with me among the millions and millions of ever clicking DSLRs. Yes, I had my slr and was snap happy too, but I just always feel a bit more comfortable using film – you have a finite amount of frames, so you are forced to think more. One of the things about the circus that is Somerset House is how many pics people shoot off – I wonder how much they really think about what they are trying to capture or whether they are hoping their expensive lens and body will accidentally capture something special. Perhaps I give my fellow bloggers less credit than they deserve but it’s definitely a thought.
J SMITH ESQ AW12
J SMITH ESQ AW12
Fashion Week’s not just about frocks. One of my favourite parts is going through the exhibition and perving on the shoes and accessories. I brought my camera so we can perve together. If you want to buy me any of these things I would be very very happy.
MALENE ODDERSHEDE BACH AW12
CABINET AW12
CABINET AW12
CABINET AW12
JOANNE STOKER AW12
JOANNE STOKER AW12
Found myself at the Christopher Raeburn presentation at London Fashion Week’s headquarters in Somerset House this afternoon. It made me want quilted trousers. The design team tell me they were made from some amazing military grade fabric, as is a lot of Raeburn’s amazingly industrial, functional work. Sadly I would look like a beached whale in quilted tapered trousers, but I would happily settle for one of the amazing parkas, or even one of the caps or bags. Raeburn is one of the Topshop BCF Newgen Designers, and won the British Fashion Award for Emerging Talent-Menswear, so don’t be surprised when he soon takes over the world with his upcycled and sustainable design. Oh you didn’t know that he’s really committed to sustainability? That’s because he does it the way it should be done – by being really good at design first and foremost.
Overall the collection for me was characterised by big hoods, navy, green and yellow, sumptuous wool, military parachute fabric, utility & function, and awesome quilted sock-cover-thingys for massive wedges. The pieces are all still wonderfully feminine but for the kind of girls who aren’t afraid to jump in puddles.
Christopher Raeburn AW12
I want this coat and this hat. I would be a better person with them on, if sadly still nowhere near as ridey as the model.
Christopher Raeburn AW12
Christopher Raeburn AW12
Christopher Raeburn AW12
Quilted Trouser NOM.
Fashion week seems like a very very long time ago – even though the last two months have flown in. I like that fashion week was the first thing I did when I moved here. It’s always going to be my moving anniversary, or something. There is a poignant thought in there somewhere but let’s save the vom-inducing saccharine bleugh and look at some well dressed people, shall we?
x
even the babies are blogworthy in Somerset House….
Given my penchant for the Pikey Boxer Look (see what I mean here), I was very pleased to stumble across the work of Sarah Angold. Presenting her third collection at Somerset House at London Fashion Week, she stood out, in my mind, as the highlight of the accessories. An engaging, charming person to boot, Angold has a background in textiles and product design, which comes across in her work. It has all the slick modernism of Industrial Design, with the softness and texture of a textile designer.
Sarah Angold SS12
Her graphic, geometric designs were inspired by London’s skyline and many, many construction sites*. Using lazer cut acrylic, non precious metals and industrial fastenings, Angold creates pieces that are tough but feminine, sculptural but wearable. Another nice touch is that all the pieces, while looking quite industrial, are all hand crafted – I don’t know why, but I am a sucker for hand made things, especially when made to such an incredibly high standard.
Sarah Angold SS12
Angold captures something in her work that I find difficult to articulate. It is so designed, in a very technical sense (that’ll be the industrial designer in her), but without the object coming across as clunky or overly designed. While they are graphic and modular, they seem smooth. I keep hearing Dieter Rams in my head when I look at them. Without wanting to sound sycophantic or overly gushing, I think that they are very very good design!
Sarah Angold SS12
So, my birthday is coming up, and if anyone wants to buy me one of Sarah’s necklaces, you can do so at the Tate Modern, 127 Brick Lane, Beyond the Valley, Gill Wing and at Sarahangold.com. Do it now, before she really hits the big time. She has already collaborated with up-and-coming NewGen wunderkid David Koma on his most recent collection, so stay tuned for this one. And seriously, anyone, birthday present much? Thanks.
Sarah Angold SS12
Find Sarah on Facebook and Twitter and her website here
Sarah Angold SS12
*This bus is on diversion…constantly. Transport rage much!
*WARNING: This post contains thoughts and social opinions*
London Fashion Week packed up and left town on Wednesday, with menswear taking the closing honours. I am really glad I made the push to make it over here in time to absorb some of madness that is fashion week – it’s sort of a circus mixed with a zoo. What really struck me was the prevalence of low budget DSLR’s (mine included) and girls and boys like me looking to catch a candid fashion moment, as well as capture the characters hanging out in Somerset House. I got talking to a few people (the fash pack are deceptively friendly) and one older Turkish man remarked that the normal people floating about seemed more important than the models, and in some ways I think I agree with him. For my part, anyway, I am as interested in how we the people interpret fashion and arrange it according to our budget and hip measurements as I am in glossy ads.
That said, I can’t ignore the latent narcissism and pure vanity of some of the people hanging out at Fashion Week HQ – there was certainly an element of “take my picture”, “notice me”, “look how beautiful I am, even though I’m not actually a model”. Some straight ups were a little too posed, some vacant stares a little too rehearsed. But the overwhelming majority of people I encountered and observed seemed to be genuine fans of fashion who were there to observe, and if people took their picture, fine, but that was not the overriding purpose of the exercise. It would be a bit glib of me to pretend like I’m not flattered if someone thinks I’m stylish – after all that is the industry I am in – but my focus has always been to create rather than take to the other side of the lens. Anyone with a passing interest in fashion will understand that street style photography has become a massive part of how fashion is now presented in the media, and dismissing it as nothing more than vanity is really missing the point of fashion imagery.
So I guess I’m being a hypocrite and saying that if you get dressed with the sole intention of having your picture taken, you’re an idiot, but if you have your photo taken because you are inherently stylish that’s fine? Yea, I think that’s basically what I’m saying.
Fashion has always had roots in exhibitionism, and I suppose the prevalence of bloggers now makes it easier to point the finger and call people up on it. Possibly we are uncomfortable with the notion of someone wanting that sort of validation; however, anyone who has ever dressed up to impress a boy or a girl or has dressed to fit in with a group is just as guilty of seeking validation through their outfit. And we all have to admire someone who is unashamedly proud of the way they put themselves together – that confidence and brazenness is what fuels the creative industries. Imagine Lady Gaga if she was just chill about things. We need exhibitionists in our midst, a focal point, a benchmark.
I have included some of my favourite shots from Somerset House over the two days that I was there. They have a theme that became apparent as I looked back on them – they are headless. In many of my shots, almost unconsciously, I found myself drawn to creating anonymity by cropping the figure – to create an image that is just about the clothes. Given my feelings on the narcissistic elements of the place, perhaps this was my psyche’s response – stripping them of their 30 seconds.
