Christopher Raeburn

Found myself at the Christopher Raeburn presentation at London Fashion Week’s headquarters in Somerset House this afternoon. It made me want quilted trousers. The design team tell me they were made from some amazing military grade  fabric, as is a lot of Raeburn’s amazingly industrial, functional work. Sadly I would look like a beached whale in quilted tapered trousers, but I would happily settle for one of the amazing parkas, or even one of the caps or bags. Raeburn is one of the Topshop BCF Newgen Designers, and won the British Fashion Award for Emerging Talent-Menswear, so don’t be surprised when he soon takes over the world with his upcycled and sustainable design. Oh you didn’t know that he’s really committed to sustainability? That’s because he does it the way it should be done – by being really good at design first and foremost.

Overall the collection for me was characterised by big hoods, navy, green and yellow, sumptuous wool, military parachute fabric, utility & function, and awesome quilted sock-cover-thingys for massive wedges. The pieces are all still wonderfully feminine but for the kind of girls who aren’t afraid to jump in puddles.

Christopher Raeburn AW12

I want this coat and this hat. I would be a better person with them on, if sadly still nowhere near as ridey as the model.

Christopher Raeburn AW12

Christopher Raeburn AW12

Christopher Raeburn AW12

Quilted Trouser NOM.

Topshop NEWGEN

It has been a crazy few weeks, turns out moving country is kind of a big, stressful, time-consuming, no-blogging-coz-iv-no-internet-in-the-house-yet deal, who would have thought?!! Anyway, enough with the excuses and back to the FASHUN. I took a lot of pictures in and around Somerset House during fashion week, and I feel that they are still relevant, even if the madness is over for another season. Rightly so, as designers work all year round to prepare their presentations, and perhaps we should take time to look at them in a slightly more reflective way, after the circus has died down. So, yea.

One of the great things I like about about Fashion Week is the British Fashion Council, Topshop sponsored NewGen scheme. I dropped by the tent at Somerset House and was delighted to see (and touch!) some of my favourite up-and-coming designer’s work. Clearly, I am soooooooooo faaaashun, I am familiar with most of the designers that were there, and am excited to see that they are about to reach breaking point. I am a massive fan of Holly Fulton and nearly fell over myself to get into her stuff.*

Holly Fulton

 

Holly Fulton's super cute illustrations!

Then there was Michael Van Der Ham, whose name keeps popping up everywhere, and once you see his stuff, it is really no surprise.

Michael Van Der Ham

Michael Van Der Ham

The Irish were being represented by wunderkid JW Anderson, whose minimal layout belied a mature, developed collection.

JW Anderson

Speaking of developed, I am developing a massive thing for Christopher Raeburn’s work. While I am not street, I love the look of urban sportswear, and parkas, and generally things that are well designed. Raeburn’s work catches my eye time and time again, and I have a feeling that he is about to blow up big time. The British Fashion Council obviously think so too, what with him being in the NEWGEN lineup. Watch this space. (**Oops, I forgot to take pics….I’m a dope. Visit his site though, it is COOL***)

David Koma is another designer that caught my eye recently, mostly because of his face prints – they are on the right sides of kitch, weird and wonderful.

David Koma

David Koma

Finally – actually firstly, as it is just as you come in the door – I really enjoyed the moodboards that the designers put together for the collections. It gave a real sense of the collection, and I think it is always inspiring to see how other people work and their approach to things.

Moodboards!

More moodboards!

More more moodboards!!

So that was NewGen. Keep your eyes peeled to see great things from these guys in the near future.

*I quite literally nearly fell over – each designer is in a little tent-cabin-y thing, with a little lip on the door…..oops….

Cozy up beside me

Autumn is here, much to my dismay. I am cheering myself up by pondering winter coats. Those that know me will know that I have a teeeeensie coat obsession…to the tune of twenty-odd of the things. Still though, I think I can justify perhaps a fresh one this season. Well, you know, fresh city, it just seems fair!

Giles AW11

Chloe AW11

Giles and Chloe rocking Gestapo chic, DELISH

So this is what I have been thinking….I am in the mood for something functional yet stylish, something that screams – I AM A DESIGNER, living in LONDON. haha. Seriously though, I’m only half joking. I want an oversize, anti-fashion, functional thing. I really like when garments go beyond fashion to become pure design, the beauty is in the simplicity, the lack of superfluous embellishment. A pocket where you need a pocket, just the right amount of warmth, a neutral colour that works with everything, the works.  As much as it is boringly on trend, I am really crushing on Barbour at the moment, if just from a quality perspective. The high street is flooded with imitators, but only the original is as warm as it is stylish….I just can’t decide which one I want more!

 

Barbour Beadnell

Barbour xLiberty Beadnell

Barbour National Trials

 

 

Living in Dublin, London, anywhwere similar,  means that for basically half the year, the most important garment you have is your coat. Because you need to wear one almost all the time. The most well thought out outfits have come undone by forgetting to incorporate the coat. And given that I am the whatever-is-closest-and-cleanest kind of dresser, getting a coat that says the right thing without having to figure out in-depth outfit plans is a major bonus.

 

Simone Rocha AW11

Celine AW11

 

Antonio Berardi AW11

Philip Lim AW11

Alexander Wang AW11

Contrasting textures & colours for added interest

I have been on the hunt for the perfect parka for roughly two years now. I have had terrible luck, because I didn’t want to pay loads of money, because in my head a parka is a casual thing, and casual things should be cheeep. But the high street ones are useless quality, flimsy and just not even worth the more reasonable price tags. Furthermore, the shape needs to be just right, long enough but not too long, utilitarian, just the right amount of oversize and straight.

Turns out I have been a FOOL, because I have found a bucketload of them on the interweb from army surplus style sites. Why I didn’t head straight there is beyond me, but now all I have to do is decide which of these babies is just right.

Aquascutum AW11

Dress Monster via Asos

Won Hundred

Swedish Military Parka

Or maybe a Duffel Coat? Maybe?

Burberry AW11

Christopher Raeburn via Brownsfashion.com

Barbour

 

I LOVE this colour!

Celine AW11

and the highstreet version…

Topshop

 

And finally, it’s not practical, nor affordable, but if someone wants to buy me this, I’ll love you forever…

Alexander Wang AW11