While I’ve been very bad at blogging for quite some time now I’ve been pretty productive elsewhere in my life. Here’s one of the moodboards I’ve been working from in the studio. Check, plaid, tartan. Whatever you wanna call it. It’s not newsworthy that grunge is back - even Look magazine is all over that shit. It is also arguable that plaid is not, in fact, back because it never really went away…it’s just more that it has been promoted…While print is having a maximal moment, a plaid is a simpler more minimal way of doing it. Loud without being fussy. This season’s plaids are in fresh new colours, as well as referencing classic 90′s styles. What I like about plaid for Spring Summer 2013 is the combinations of print and textures, á la Dries with the florals and the mettalics. Or Richard Chai Love with the washed out, painterly thing. And if all else fails, just throw on a mini kilt and matching jacket and look like a total Betty, as per Cher in Clueless. Way cool.
More memories from London Fashion Week Fall 2012. As we all know, the devil is in the detail. And they were some devilishly good details. Sorry, that was really poor, even by my standards. The details, by contrast, are of a very high standard. And again, yellow and red seem to be the pervading LFW AW12 street style colours of choice. Go figure.
Fashion Week seems like an age ago, and I am very bold that I’m only getting around to this post now. I posted about the fasharazzi, and how odd the circus at Somerset House is, but in fact I am an awful hypocrite because I was there, papping away myself. As I noted at fashion week in September, I have a tendency to crop people’s heads when I shoot street style. I am not entirely sure why I do this, perhaps it is a reaction to the blatant showing off that some people carry on with, but it is meant with no malice or conscious thought. I guess I just like the anonymous aesthetic.
Either way, I unconsciously shot a colour story – red and yellow were the two key colours that caught my eye. The message? This summer it’s all about hyper-bright block colour? I’m not actually sure, but this is what the kids in London were wearing at Fashion Week Fall 2012…
Yes I know technically this is closer to green, but close enough. Plus, she’s wearing Acne shoes.
Let’s keep this one short and sweet. Autumn Winter 2012/13 trends, as picked out by moi. AW12 I wanna sink my teeth into.
I am beyond obsessed with all things baroque at the minute. I want to live in a seventeenth century dream for a little minute.
Russian dolls. Folk princesses. Little bit 70′s, little bit Anastasia. Love. It.
Did I mention that I had a ticket for Basso & Brooke’s show and couldn’t go? GUTTED. Especially when I saw what I had missed up close and in detail. The guys have been championing print-clash forever, and right now the fashion world are seeing their way of looking at things. Building on SS12′s obsession with print-on-print, Fall’s offering collages the new graphic geometric. Think houndstooth beside waffle, diamond beside hexagon, squares beside stripes. It’s mostly mid-scale, so that it’s large enough to be seen, but small enough to show a decent amount of repeats – these prints want you to know that they are there. It’s monochromes, purples, blues and reds. It’s really interesting brocades and quilting, creating surface texture in neoprenes and lurex. It’s reminiscent of men’s scarves and questionable ’60′s interiors. It’s graphic, and loud, and definitely not for the faint hearted.
On another note, I have been making moodboards. Here’s one I made earlier.
Let me tell you about Alan. Alan Taylor is the kind of guy who knows what’s what before it’s even a what. He’s the kind of guy who shaved off his floppy locks and started dressing like a skinhead before it was cool. He’s the kind of guy that when he says men should wear skirts, then lads, I hope you have shaved your legs. Alan Taylor is so on the money it’s ridiculous. But don’t let that put you off, he’s an insanely nice guy and fierce talented to boot.
Having interned at McQueen and worked closely with Simone Rocha for the past few years, he has decided to set up his own eponymously titled menswear label, Alan Taylor. Check out his awesome first fashion film for his new collection below, entitled “Man”. I like Alan’s vision of MAN, it is a strong and modern masculinity. It’s men in skirts, in a Roman Warrior, East London go-f**k-yourself kind of way, as opposed to Beckham in a sarong. It’s sharp tailoring and interesting combinations of fabrics that is reminiscent of his old boss, Ms. Rocha, but with his own aesthetic. There is a weird darkness to the collection, but don’t let the show pieces confuse you, his clothes are designed for real men, with trousers, shirts & coats that are sharp and wearable.
The fashionable man is a strange entity. Most of his garments are appropriated by the fashionable woman, especially in recent years when masculine tailoring and androgyny have been key trends. Menswear tends to play it safe and deliver the same old thing, or goes so avant-garde that only the most flamboyant, effeminate fashion man would ever wear it. And while I lust after Taylor’s shirts, this collection is very definitely for men, even the skirts are strong, and manly. It is directional without compromising masculinity, which is a fine line and difficult to achieve.
So everyone, big up the nice lad from Rathfarnham who’s about to be the next big thing. And in a little while when he’s a megastar, I am quite happily going to tell you I TOLD YOU SO.
These were the best bits of Topshop/BFC’s NewGen area at Somerset House, according to me, when I visited on Saturday. I was sad because Holly Fulton & Michael Van Der Ham have yet to show so they only had last season’s collection, and JW Anderson had like 4 things on his space. But I was happy because there was a bunch of awesome new stuff, like David Koma’s amazing collection, and Paler//Harding’s incredible shirt-based collection, Thomas Tait, and Simone Rocha’s INSANE new collection, and Sister by Sibling’s super fun one, and……..I am in danger of gushing.
Let’s just have a little moment for how insanely good Simone Rocha is. This season was her first proper show, and from seeing the pieces up close and personal, she is really ready to play with the big boys. The level of quality and detail in her work is so developed and refined, and her colour pallate and ability to play with texture really is something special. I particularly loved her shirt with the wooly collar, was so cute, and then the lace blazer, and the wooly/perspex dress. Dream.
Also, this was my first season knowing about Thomas Tait, and I can’t wait for more amazing things from him.
And finally, Sister by Sibling totally made my rainy day with their cheeky little barbie dolls at their space. Love it.
Hung out in Somerset House again today with my pal and blogger extrodinaire Ana aka Ripped Knees. She was kind enough to take a pic of me to share with you nosey parkers. Here I am wearing clothes, in front of the Fashun Week hoarding. A nice lady from Company also asked to take my picture, I think because her iPad case was the same colour as my skirt!
Shirt, American Apparel; Cardigan, Comptoir des Cottoniers; Skirt, thrifted; Coat; custom hacked to pieces; Shoes, Carvela; Hat, American Apparel; Scarf, Urban Outfitters, HOLGA
acid pop colour for the win!
I have been meaning to features these shoes for ages as I bought them in the sales at Christmas and I love them to pieces. They are half-brogue-half-creeper and really this picture does the soles no justice, but they are comfy and awesome. My mother thinks they look like nun shoes and she may well have a point but no matter because they look GREAT.
Also loved having my lil Holga with me among the millions and millions of ever clicking DSLRs. Yes, I had my slr and was snap happy too, but I just always feel a bit more comfortable using film – you have a finite amount of frames, so you are forced to think more. One of the things about the circus that is Somerset House is how many pics people shoot off – I wonder how much they really think about what they are trying to capture or whether they are hoping their expensive lens and body will accidentally capture something special. Perhaps I give my fellow bloggers less credit than they deserve but it’s definitely a thought.
Found myself at the Christopher Raeburn presentation at London Fashion Week’s headquarters in Somerset House this afternoon. It made me want quilted trousers. The design team tell me they were made from some amazing military grade fabric, as is a lot of Raeburn’s amazingly industrial, functional work. Sadly I would look like a beached whale in quilted tapered trousers, but I would happily settle for one of the amazing parkas, or even one of the caps or bags. Raeburn is one of the Topshop BCF Newgen Designers, and won the British Fashion Award for Emerging Talent-Menswear, so don’t be surprised when he soon takes over the world with his upcycled and sustainable design. Oh you didn’t know that he’s really committed to sustainability? That’s because he does it the way it should be done – by being really good at design first and foremost.
Overall the collection for me was characterised by big hoods, navy, green and yellow, sumptuous wool, military parachute fabric, utility & function, and awesome quilted sock-cover-thingys for massive wedges. The pieces are all still wonderfully feminine but for the kind of girls who aren’t afraid to jump in puddles.
I want this coat and this hat. I would be a better person with them on, if sadly still nowhere near as ridey as the model.
Quilted Trouser NOM.